FAQ
Do I need a heat gun or special tools to install these guards?
Special tools are not required, as the Gladius, Saber, and Claymore are engineered as room-temperature, pressure-activated systems that mold to standard frame contours under firm hand pressure. However, gently pre-warming the guard and frame with a hair dryer or heat gun (on its lowest setting) is highly recommended—especially in cooler workspaces, on tight frame curves, or when installing thicker profiles like the Saber and Claymore. Pre-warming softens the TPU, making contouring and edge-setting significantly easier. Caution: Use low, sweeping heat only. Never concentrate high heat in one spot or overheat the guard, paint, or carbon frame.
Can I mix and match different Blade Guard models on the same frame?
Yes. The Gladius, Saber, and Claymore models all utilize our standardized sliding male/female dovetail joint mating interface. This allows you to scale and customize your layout sequentially directly on the frame's surface, interlocking pieces together to match your specific frame length and protective needs.
Will the adhesive damage my frame or factory graphics?
The pre-applied 3M 300LSE industrial-grade acrylic adhesive is chosen for its permanent, moisture-resistant bond to both carbon fiber and aluminum bicycle frames. While it is safe for standard factory clear coats, you should exercise caution when applying guards over aftermarket decals or external vinyl graphics, as the high-strength adhesive may lift them if you decide to remove the guard in the future.
Can I install these guards over frame drain holes?
We do not recommend blocking your frame's drainage. During your dry-fit process, identify any bottom bracket or frame drain holes. Plan your layout to align joints or leave small gaps directly over these holes to allow proper frame drainage and prevent moisture build-up. Alternatively, drill or poke a hole in the guard before installation.
Can I install Blade Guards over existing Paint Protection Film (PPF)?
Yes. We regularly install Blade Guards directly over existing PPF and vinyl wraps using only the standard prep process (a soapy water scrub followed by the included Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe). You do not need to use an adhesion promoter—standard installation works great in almost all scenarios. That said, if your film has a slick, hydrophobic topcoat, or if you want an extra step for maximum long-term longevity, applying a light coat of 3M Adhesion Promoter before sticking the guard down is a solid optional upgrade.
Edge Lifting on Aggressive Downtube Geometries
The Problem:
Abrupt downtube angles, tight frame bends, or sharp transitions can occasionally cause the edges of the semi-rigid TPU guard to buckle or lift before the adhesive has fully set.
The Solution:
1. Heat Forming (Recommended First Step): Warming the TPU is the most effective way to conquer extreme geometry. Heat makes the material highly malleable, and once it cools, it naturally retains its new molded shape.
- Pre-Installation: For extreme bends, we highly recommend pre-heating the guard before you apply it to the frame.
- Post-Installation: If the guard is already installed and begins to buckle (and the adhesive underneath is not yet contaminated with dirt) apply heat to the affected area. Once warm, lift the edge, pull it to create mechanical tension, and press it firmly back over the angle.
- Temperature Guidelines: The optimal temperature for forming TPU is 60 to 80°C. You don't need a thermometer; a good rule of thumb is to warm the guard until it is just getting too hot to comfortably hold in your bare hands.
2. Taping (Use in Conjunction with Heat): Apply the guard, then wrap it tightly with a residue-free tape (such as silicone self-fusing tape) overnight. This maintains uniform mechanical pressure to keep the edges perfectly flush while the adhesive achieves its full cure.
3. Relief Cuts (For Extreme Cases): If the frame geometry is extremely abrupt and causes buckling despite heat and taping, use a pair of flush cutters to notch or trim away excess material where the edge is buckling to relieve the mechanical tension.
Important: Always Allow a 24-Hour Cure Time
Always allow a full 24 hours before riding to verify a secure, long-term fit. While the guard may appear perfectly adhered initially, edge lifting or buckling can occur as the material settles into the frame's shape. Riding prematurely with lifted edges allows dirt and moisture to ruin the adhesive bond. Waiting a full day ensures the material sets properly and reveals if any modifications are needed before the adhesive becomes contaminated.
Guard Interfering with Moving Parts
- The Problem: The added thickness of the guard (especially the heavy-duty 5.0 mm profile) can sometimes tightly clear cranks or suspension linkages.
- The Solution: Always perform a complete Dry Fit before peeling any adhesive backing. Hold the guard segments against the frame, then cycle your rear suspension and turn the cranks through their full range of motion to verify there is absolute clearance from all moving parts.
How to Ensure the Strongest Adhesive Bond
- Optimal Temperature: Perform your installation in an environment at or above room temperature, as cold surfaces inhibit the activation of the pressure-sensitive adhesive. For the easiest installation and best conformity, gently pre-warm the guard and target frame area using a hair dryer or low-heat gun until warm and pliable before applying (take care not to overheat the guard or frame).
- Surface Stripping: Washing with soapy water alone is not enough. You must completely strip all silicone-based bike polishes, waxes, and detailers from the target application zone. Follow this wash by thoroughly wiping the target area with the included Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe, and let it dry completely.
- Protective Films & Overlays (PPF): You can install Blade Guards directly over existing paint protection film (PPF) or factory frame guards. In most scenarios, standard surface prep—washing with soapy water and wiping down with the included Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe—is all that is needed for a strong, reliable bond. An adhesion promoter is not required. However, if you are applying over an unusually slick or hydrophobic film, experience stubborn edge lifting, or simply want extra insurance for maximum long-term longevity, you can optionally treat the film surface with an adhesion promoter (such as 3M Adhesion Promoter) prior to installation.
- Heavy Pressure: The 3M 300LSE adhesive is pressure-activated. Work from the centerline outward, squeezing out any air bubbles, and apply heavy, firm thumb pressure across the entire surface.
- Curing Window: Allow the guard to sit undisturbed for 24 hours before exposing the bike to washing, heavy rain, or wet trail riding to allow the adhesive to reach its maximum bond strength.
