Do I need a heat gun or special tools to install these guards? No. Unlike our legacy thermoformed Katana guards, the Gladius, Saber, and Claymore are engineered as room-temperature, pressure-activated systems. They mold to standard frame contours under firm, localized hand pressure alone. No heat guns, hair dryers, or silicone compression wraps are required for standard installation.

Can I mix and match different Blade Guard models on the same frame? Yes. The Gladius, Saber, and Claymore models all utilize our standardized sliding male/female dovetail joint mating interface. This allows you to scale and customize your layout sequentially directly on the frame's surface, interlocking pieces of the same width together to match your specific frame length and protective needs.

Will the adhesive damage my frame or factory graphics? The pre-applied 3M 300LSE industrial-grade acrylic adhesive is chosen for its permanent, moisture-resistant bond to both carbon fiber and aluminum bicycle frames. While it is safe for standard factory clear coats, you should exercise caution when applying guards over aftermarket decals or external vinyl graphics, as the high-strength adhesive may lift them if you decide to remove the guard in the future.

Can I install these guards over frame drain holes? We do not recommend blocking your frame's drainage. During your dry-fit process, identify any bottom bracket or frame drain holes. Plan your layout to align joints or leave small gaps directly over these holes to allow proper frame drainage and prevent moisture build-up. Alternatively, drill or poke a hole in the guard before installation.

Troubleshooting & Installation Pro Tips

Edge Lifting on Aggressive Downtube Geometries

• The Problem: Abrupt downtube angles, tight frame bends, or sharp transitions can occasionally cause the edges of the semi-rigid TPU guard to buckle or lift before the adhesive has fully set.
• The Solution:
• Taping (Recommended First Step): Apply the guard, then wrap it tightly with a residue-free tape (such as painter’s tape or silicone self-fusing tape) overnight. This maintains uniform mechanical pressure to keep the edges perfectly flush while the adhesive achieves its full cure.
• Relief Cuts: If the frame geometry is extremely abrupt and causes buckling, use a pair of flush cutters to notch or trim away excess material where the edge is buckling to relieve the mechanical tension.

Guard Interfering with Moving Parts

• The Problem: The added thickness of the guard (especially the heavy-duty 5.0 mm profile) can sometimes tightly clear cranks or suspension linkages.
• The Solution: Always perform a complete Dry Fit before peeling any adhesive backing. Hold the guard segments against the frame, then cycle your rear suspension and turn the cranks through their full range of motion to verify there is absolute clearance from all moving parts.

How to Ensure the Strongest Adhesive Bond

• Optimal Temperature: Perform your installation in an environment at or above room temperature. Cold frames or cold environments inhibit the activation of the pressure-sensitive adhesive.
• Surface Stripping: Washing with soapy water alone is not enough. You must completely strip all silicone-based bike polishes, waxes, and detailers from the target application zone. Follow this wash by thoroughly wiping the target area with the included Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe, and let it dry completely.
• Heavy Pressure: The 3M 300LSE adhesive is pressure-activated. Work from the centerline outward, squeezing out any air bubbles, and apply heavy, firm thumb pressure across the entire surface.
• Curing Window: Allow the guard to sit undisturbed for 24 hours before exposing the bike to washing, heavy rain, or wet trail riding to allow the adhesive to reach its maximum bond strength.